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Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:43 am UTC
by Izawwlgood
EvanED wrote:5.9 is awfully high to start counting. The gyms I see usually start at 5.6, and it's not terribly difficult to find real routes that are easier (that one is 5.2).

In which I reveal my stubborn preference for bouldering over roping of any sort.

Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:52 pm UTC
by d0nk3y_k0n9
EvanED wrote:Outdoor speaking, what I'd generally say is that the places with a long history of climbing, like Devil's Lake or the Gunks or probably Yosemite, have much stiffer ratings. Places that have been established more recently are softer.


This tends to be accurate in my experience, and also correlates somewhat with indoor climbing if you know what climbing areas people from the gym (especially staff and routesetters) tend to go. For example, the gym at my school, ~3 hours from the Gunks, tends to have much stiffer ratings than the gym I used to climb at, which was ~2 hours from Red River Gorge.

Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 3:45 pm UTC
by Sytri
Izawwlgood wrote:
EvanED wrote:5.9 is awfully high to start counting. The gyms I see usually start at 5.6, and it's not terribly difficult to find real routes that are easier (that one is 5.2).

In which I reveal my stubborn preference for bouldering over roping of any sort.


Try some roping every now and again, I find that it helps increase stamina and will help so much more with your bouldering.

I'm now three weeks away from being able to go climbing three times a week again. I'm currently training for a half marathon so am limiting myself to only once a week. My aim is to be able to complete v6b/c by the end of the year top roping and maybe try out some lead climbing and to go up two grades in bouldering v4 to v6.

I've just caught up on this thread having been away from it for a while. It's made me want to go climbing now instead of being stuck in work!

Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:53 pm UTC
by TheKrikkitWars
Izawwlgood wrote:
EvanED wrote:5.9 is awfully high to start counting. The gyms I see usually start at 5.6, and it's not terribly difficult to find real routes that are easier (that one is 5.2).

In which I reveal my stubborn preference for bouldering over roping of any sort.


Tis the devils work I tell ye! More fool you if you let fiendish problems steal your mind and sap your strength; Hell, if you're drinking water between problems the fluoride is probably stealing your masculine essence!

I say this from an equally ingrained, stubborn position having been introduced to the various aspects of "the classic british mountaineering ethic" first by my dad (aged eight), again by an ex girlfriend (aged 17) and once more for good luck by some random people who invited me to a party in a climbing wall under their house (aged 19)... Climbing is not a valid activity if it doesn't mean you don't summit something at the end, everything else is just training for the real deal!

Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:10 am UTC
by Izawwlgood
I summit things all the time! I just get to whoop and drop the 20 ft and roll awkwardly.

My stamina is weak, but I like the mental aspect of bouldering problems.

Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:35 pm UTC
by juststrange
Izawwlgood wrote:I summit things all the time! I just get to whoop and drop the 20 ft and roll awkwardly.

My stamina is weak, but I like the mental aspect of bouldering problems.


I'm with you. My route/boulder split is sad (Onsight 5.12a on a good day, V6+ in short session if the elements cooperate). I think part of it is my physics/engineering fear of the unknown. 20 feet up on a rope, between the rope, the gear, and the guy on the other end, all sorts of things could happen. 20 feet up above my pad(s), I know where the system is going to come to rest. I've got a terrible fascination with bouldering over terrible ankle-breaker landings, on stuff that I've not seen others do. Little bit of fear does me good.

Anybody work to death something that is significantly higher than your current level in hopes of crushing it through muscle memory? I'm usually only good for V7 at best outdoors, but theres a V10 down the street from my house, my style, and the weathers been good. Getting way more dialed on it than I ought, but theres still that pesky V10 move right in the middle....... Blind squirrel hoping for a nut here.

Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 2:37 pm UTC
by TheKrikkitWars
I went to see an old friend last weekend (she was having a party to celebrate her engagement) and after much merriment and some hushed discussion, agreed to start training to do a +6000M peak together in the alpine style* sometime in the next 4 years...

We've not quite worked out which one we want to go for yet:
  • Aconcagua is the obvious choice, however...
  • Denali sounds cool, but on consideration would be too significant a commitment due to the somewhat technical nature of the climbing and the potential for very violent weather conditions.
  • I'd quite like to look at doing one of the Snow Leopard peaks in the Pamirs, Lenin Peak (or Ibn Sina Peak if you prefer) in particular is appealing, as it contains a component of proper technical climbing (Aconcagua, does not require technical climbing to summit, similar to the highest of the trekking peaks in Nepal) remains an uncomplicated climb more suited to a partnership who are not experienced at very high altitude, even though it's actually a +7000M peak
*I.E. self supported, in one contiguous climb, with no porters, guides or fixed ropes.

Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:14 am UTC
by TheKrikkitWars
We've had an unexpected cold snap, so... more winter adventures.

We went out for a bit of a walk up Moel Siabod (Mo-El Sh-A-boD) in the fresh snow,
Image

Then took a shortcut up an iced up drainge gulley and a buttress banked out with frozen turf and snow...
Image

To access the ridge, from there it was just a walk to the summit.
Image

Was quite a cool little trip to fill an afternoon, not too taxing either.
Hopefully Thursday I'll be going to climb a steeper buttress route in Cwm Cnefion, if the weather stays cold enough to keep it frozen.

Re: Rock Climbing

Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:52 am UTC
by TheKrikkitWars
So my climbing partner and I got a little over-enthusiastic yesterday and came within a hair's breadth of either getting killed or becoming cragfast and having to call Mountain Rescue.

Very scary learning experience: the ropes tangled up a real treat, I had to untie, solo up to the crux then place pro and clip into that whilst I tried to untangle it, when it became clear that it was going to take longer than I was willing to stand still on my crampons, I had to tie loops in both ropes above the tangle, clip into them, then climb the crux dragging two 40m ish lengths of horribly tangled rope... By the time we'd managed to deal with all that, we still had a pitch to go in what little moonlight we had available (plus headtorches).

Anyway, lessons learned:
  • Don't be greedy, If you've already got some climbs in then is trying to squeeze in just one more really a good idea?
  • Make allowances for Tiredness and/or Poorer than expected conditions, if you decide to go for something because you "just have time", do you really?
  • Don't underestimate the effect that stress will have on your ablity to focus or to climb naturally
  • Don't let your ropes develop twists in them... it makes them a real ballache to handle (especially when you have two iced up 60M ropes to contend with)
  • Don't rack too much stuff on a sling when climbing less than vertical stuff, It really really gets irritating as you're leaning forwards, much better to use a proper bandolier with a restraining strap.
  • Soloing something well within your grade, but +300m up will be the hardest climbing you've ever do.