Technical Ben wrote:PS, doogly, way to miss the point.
ArgonV wrote:I also have a question: If you want to start, with small batches, just to get a feel, what kind of equipment do you need?
Ulc wrote:ArgonV wrote:You can probably get the basics for $60-80 - though you need some more stuff when you go to larger batches, and you will, sine there's practically no difference between making 5 litres and making 25 litres, except for the bottling.
Ulc wrote:I've seriously never had a problem with sanitation - and I'm really not sure how people actually have that problem. Sure, everything that comes into contact with the beer should be sterilised, but the beer honestly doesn't go bad all that easily due to the combination of alcohol, hops, low ph due to the yeast and the fat that the yeast basically eats *everything*.
Sure, it's important but people are overreacting. The first time I brewed that overreacting had scared me quite a bit and I basically sterilised anything within 3 metres of where I brewed - when all that's really needed is to boil everything that comes into contact with the cold wort, or wash it in a good cleaning agent.
icanus wrote:Only thing I wasn't happy with was my attempt at carbonating - I bottled it in recycled beer bottles with a half-teaspoon of sugar in each, and while it just about forms a head, it's pretty flat. I'm thinking I might have kept it a bit too cool after bottling, or should I have added more sugar?
mercutio_stencil wrote:How long did you let it wait after bottling? It can take up to a week, sometimes two for full carbonation. A half teaspoon does sounds\ just a little low, but I usually use a priming solution to ensure sterility.
Whitekiboko wrote:I wanted to play around with Citra and Sorachi Ace for a while and now that i've gotten both, I was think of this for a stronger ipa:
1oz liberty 3.0aa 60min
1oz citra 12.3 20min
1oz sorachi ace 11.6/6.7 20 min
2 oz citra 5m
2 oz sorachi 5m
Although I was also debating splitting the 3oz each 1.5/1.5.
I noticed my WLP 001 California, 008 East Coast, 022 Essex and 060 American Blend were expired, so I made 1L starters.* After a day the Essex is really struggling, even though there are 2 vials in the flask. The East Coast has an impressive krausen and along with the American Blend smells great.
Should I make 4 batches of the same recipe each with a different yeast, or should I try the 2 of one hopping rate and 2 of the other?
mercutio_stencil wrote:Part of me wants to say if you can't brew drunk, you can't brew. Unfortunately, it's just not really true, and I do most of my brewing is done sober, or at least the stuff I really care about.
I also just had my strangest homebrew fail ever, I tried and failed at making a sour beer. I brewed a batch of a saison and took about a gallon of boiled wort, mixed it with a gallon of unboiled last runnings and let that ferment without intentionally aerating. It's somehow, against all odds, not at all sour, and in fact has a pleasant crispness to it that the ordinary fermentation didn't get. Next time I'm just going to have to inoculate.
SurgicalSteel wrote:I'm learning from Papazian's Joy of Homebrewing
SurgicalSteel wrote:he says to take a hydrometer reading right after filling the fermentation vessel, but then does nothing with it until a few weeks later when he's checking levels every other day or so to see when they stop changing. So my question is, do I really have to take a reading right after I fill the fermentation vessel if all I'm looking for is changes, not specific values? I ask because my hydrometer isn't arriving until Tuesday, but I'd like to start the process this weekend, instead of waiting until next weekend.
SurgicalSteel wrote:So ... I think I screwed up. The book said to detach the blow-off hose and attach the fermentation-lock after a couple days when the foaming subsided. So I did. But, there are no bubbles in the fermentation-lock as the book says there should be. Is this a bad sign? Has my yeast died? Also, there's a brown crust all around the top of the fermentation vessel (a glass carboy). I have the sinking feeling I screwed up and will have to start over.
Haha, yea, I guess I kind of forgot to put any sort of updates here. I didn't throw out the beer, I consulted some other people (including my father, who used to homebrew when he was my age) and left it. I've been drinking my first homebrew for the past 2 months or so (I know, I'm a slow drinker and I quickly get bored with one style, so I go buy other beer, which means my homebrew doesn't get drunk as fast).ImagingGeek wrote:a whole bunch of nice responses to my questions. thanks dude!
SurgicalSteel wrote:I'm actually using the 3rd edition of Papazian's book, and he doesn't tell you to secondary for quite a few of his recipes, and definitely not in his beginner's section. The guy at the brew shop recommended it, and my dad learned from the first edition of Joy of Brewing.
SurgicalSteel wrote:Also, since like I said I get bored with one style, is it possible to make beer in batches smaller than 5 gallons by just dividing the ingredient quantities, like normal cooking? I thought it would be but a friend who's also just getting into homebrewing said he doesn't think you can for some reason.
ImagingGeek wrote:I know the initial outlay is expensive, but kegging is fantastic - 1,000,000,000.95% better than bottling, and convenient as hell.
Whitekiboko wrote:ImagingGeek wrote:I know the initial outlay is expensive, but kegging is fantastic - 1,000,000,000.95% better than bottling, and convenient as hell.
If I knew how much better kegging was to begin with, I would have never ever bottled.
ImagingGeek wrote: A batch of beer doesn't last nearly as long as it used to.
SurgicalSteel wrote:I have a question for the more experienced here: I have a carboy of something brewing, and last time I checked the gravity I tasted the beer too. It tasted absolutely horrible. Should I just dump it and try a different recipe? Or is there a chance the flavor will change enough after bottling to make it drinkable?
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