National Parks

[ams]

I've decided I need to take some time off this summer to go on a trip, a getaway from work. My main thought it going on a trip to one or more U.S. national (or state) parks to go hiking and give my camera a workout. I'm trying to decide where I should go.

I'm expecting to have 9 consecutive days off work (Saturday through the next Sunday). Drive times are a factor for me (I live in central Kansas), and I would much prefer to drive than fly. As I said above, my main interests for this are hiking and photography. I can get claustrophobic at times, so I think I should just cross out any of the cave systems. It will probably be just me going. I also kind of want to avoid huge crowds.

My first thought after looking through a list of national parks was Acadia in Maine. I've never seen the ocean, and the park just looks gorgeous for photography. But it's a 30-hour drive, so I would pretty much have to fly. Rocky Mountain National Park could be really cool if I wanted to go to one and stay for most of the week. I went there 12 years ago during the summer after my sophomore year of high school, and it was really pretty and a lot of fun. My other thought right now is possibly a multi-park swing through Colorado and Utah, hitting Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Arches, Canyonlands, and maybe Capitol Reef.

So what are your experiences with national parks? Are there any I should really add to my list for consideration? Are there any awesome state parks I should visit?

[Samik]

I just did a swing through AZ and UT a few months ago (Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce, Arches, Canyonlands...)


I've never really been anywhere else, so I can't compare (and I wasn't the trip organizer, so I didn't really get a firm grasp of the alternatives), but if you're not going to do any real back country, and rather desire to just do day hikes, the Utah swing would be a good choice - just a seemingly never-ending string of parks, within reasonable drives of one another, each and every one with wildly different geology.


Depending on what you decide, you should consider getting the national park pass. I think it's approx. $80, and will get you into an unlimited number of parks for a year. And, if I recall correctly, I believe you can put two names on it, so if you know someone else who would make use of it after you're done, you can give it to them.

[ams]

I don't think back country is in the works for me, at least not this time around. If I decide on the multi-park trip, I'll definitely look into the national park pass. I expect it would be a savings over the entry fees for all of them.

[Bassoon]

I'd highly recommend Glacier National Park in Montana. It's pretty close to the border of Canada, so it might be a bit of a drive, but I assure you that it is absolutely perfect. And depending on where in Kansas you are coming from, you might be able to go through Yellowstone to get there, hitting another pretty great (albeit popular) national park along the way.

[ams]

Going to Glacier National Park would definitely take a 2-day drive to get there, but it looks absolutely gorgeous. It's a long way, but I'll definitely put it on my list to consider.

[rath358]

I went hiking in Rocky Mountain last summer with my uncle. It was absolutely wonderful, but he really knew where the good places to visit were. The thing I noticed about Rocky, though, is that there are a LOT of tourists in the parking lots and the day hike trails. If you go for the backcountry it will probably be less crowded. I don't know how full it is during this time of year, though. After hiking, we took a few hours to do a drive on the peak-to-peak highway, which is an absolutely BEAUTIFUL route. It does go up to a bit over 2 miles in elevation, so I would make sure I really trust my car.

I went on a day-hike or two in Glacier a couple of years ago, and have rode through it on the train. It is also wondrous, but sounds like it is a bit too much of a drive for your purposes. If you do go out there, though, be sure to check out Flathead lake and Wild horse Island. My grandfather used to live on the island, and it is absolutely beautiful.
If you want more information, I can email my mother. She used to be a ranger at Glacier, and probably knows all the cool places to go to.

[PAstrychef]

You could check out the many places on the Lewis and Clark Trail which passes through Missouri and Kansas as well as points West. There seems to be some nice hiking, and plenty of things to photograph.

[Jacque]

Yosemite National Park is a little far from Kansas to really consider for this trip but is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. Hiking was great. Views, spectacular.

Spoiler:

Some photos from my last trip:

[Garm]

Problem with Yosemite is that it's almost impossible to get a camping permit now. You have to plan your trip there months in advance.

If you go to RMNP you can see (or even stay at) The Stanley Hotel.

[ams]

I've been thinking, in my mind, this trip will be as much about photography as about hiking. With that in mind, it would be a huge task to carry all I'd need for backcountry hiking and all my camera gear. So I think I want to stick with some place (or places) that are good for day hikes.

I went on a day-hike or two in Glacier a couple of years ago, and have rode through it on the train. It is also wondrous, but sounds like it is a bit too much of a drive for your purposes. If you do go out there, though, be sure to check out Flathead lake and Wild horse Island. My grandfather used to live on the island, and it is absolutely beautiful.
If you want more information, I can email my mother. She used to be a ranger at Glacier, and probably knows all the cool places to go to.

I would appreciate that, especially if you could ask about underrated (specifically undercrowded) day hikes.

I've decided Acadia is just too far at this point. If it was me and one or more other people going, we could take shifts driving. I wouldn't want to fly, because how am I going to see the country that way? So let's cross off Acadia for now.

I've also got a couple of other recommendations, so here is the current list of possibilities, in no particular order:
1. Rocky Mountain National Park (Colorado)
2. Colorado/Utah loop -- some combination of Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Zion, and Bryce Canyon national parks
3. Isle Royale (Michigan)
4. Glacier National Park (Montana)
5. Grand Teton National Park (Wyoming) with a possible trip to the Wind River mountains (also Wyoming)

This is what I'm looking at the most right now. And I should probably narrow things down quickly, in case I need to reserve a camping spot or five. I'll be going sometime during the summer (start of June to mid-August), if that affects anyone's recommendations.

[charolastra]

I cannot recommend the Grand Tetons - Yellowstone combo enough. My family spent about 3 weeks a few years ago doing those two, Glacier National Park, and Craters of the Moon in ID and it was glorious. You could have a nice time in just Grand Tetons and Yellowstone for 8 days.

[Scow]

Rocky Mountain National Park is always worth another visit. I've been hiking in that park every season for the past 4 years and I can't get enough of it. Also, the snowpack is very thin right now. It should be a killer year for early season hiking at high elevation without snowshoes or alpine equipment (the snowpack is about ~35 in. at wild basin right now, compared with ~65 in. at the same time last year). Note: by early season, I mean early May to mid June.

Some of the coolest, most epic, and beautiful terrain isn't even in the park. Look into visiting Indian Peaks Wilderness Area (just to the south of RMNP) and Rawah Wilderness Area (just to the north of RMNP). One of my craziest hikes ever was at Indian Peaks (looking down a 700ft tall sheer cliff from a snowbound mountain pass after a 5 mile hike, up 1500ft, through snow up to your thighs is something that sticks with you). Rawah is better in some ways. The lakes and peaks are incredible and it borders national forest land; you can just camp on the side of the road in most places. I've also heard great things about the Never Summer Mountains Wilderness Area. That one is more difficult to get to so I haven't made it there yet.

If you make a trip out this way, pick up a copy of Rocky Mountain National Park: The Complete Hiking Guide by Lisa Foster. You just open it to the index, pick the distance/elevation you want to cover, and it gives you all the details.

Enjoy your trip.

[Enuja]

I wouldn't worry too much about crowds. Yes, the central area of Yosemite Valley is a congested mess, and there are so many people in the Zion Valley that cars are essentially not allowed and have been replaced with buses. However, it's pretty easy to get out of the press of people (I'm going to use examples from Zion National Park, because that's where I've been most recently). Don't go on the very most popular trails (the short loops to nearby locations, Angel's landing which is chains on a knife's edge - basically climbing for walkers - and so not only extremely crowded but very ill suited to crowds), and walk fast for the first 2-3 miles out. Once you're a 2-3 mile walk from the nearest parking lot or bus stop, in my experience, US National Parks are simply not crowded. Sure, you'll see a reasonable number of people on beautiful summer days, and it's advisable not to block the trail with your backpack while you take a break, but if you hike first and take pictures second, you'll be fine. Avoid loops less than 6 miles long, go for in and out trails over loops in general (because other people find them boring, but trails always look different coming and going), and you won't have any serious crowding to worry about.

[pyronius]

If i can make a suggestion, All of Colorado regardless of being a park or not is simply gorgeous. one of the best experiences i ever had was one summer week in Colorado planning to hike a few trails before our major hike to the peak of Elbert. When a few of our plans fell through me and my brothers pretty literally jumped out of the car while my dad was being grumpy and just began hiking up the side of a mountain on a nondescript mostly unused footpath. it lead to gorgeous tundra, a strange mountain swamp/creek sort of thing (confusing i know), a scramble up a hillside made of boulders, and ultimately a successful venture to the nearest peak completely off trail.

it might no be your thing to go back country, but going off trail in an area you understand well enough can be awesome. I highly recommend taking a day or two to just drive into the middle of nowhere and start walking no matter where you go.

Edit: Oh, and there were marmots. MARMOTS MAN.

[ams]

Edit: Oh, and there were marmots. MARMOTS MAN.

Don't forget pikas. As a page designer, I have a lot more experience with picas.

[ams]

OK, I've decided to go to Rocky Mountain National Park for a couple of reasons.

1. Its relatively close proximity means a shorter travel time and more time for camping, hiking, and photography
2. Since I'll be going during the summer, I want to go somewhere cool. The mountain elevations should help.
3. It has plenty of good day hikes to keep me busy. I just don't think I'm ready for backcountry trips yet.

I know a couple of day hikes I want to make. I definitely want to go to Dream Lake for the view of Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain, and probably to Bear Lake. Does anyone have any other day hikes I should take that offer great photography opportunities?

[Scow]

Does anyone have any other day hikes I should take that offer great photography opportunities?

Yes. I happen to know a few good day hikes.

If you are checking out Bear Lake and Dream Lake, make a day out of it and go for Black Lake. Take the trail out of glacier gorge trailhead (the one just below the bear lake trailhead), hike out past a series of waterfalls, past Mills Lake, and you will eventually reach an incredible alpine tarn that holds Black Lake. The hike is 5 miles one way and only ~1400 ft of elevation change. The peaks that surround Black Lake are stunning.

Depending on the time of year you make it out here, the hike up to Lawn Lake and Crystal Lake is the one to do. The hike can be grueling but it is worth it. The alpine meadows above Lawn Lake have wild flowers as far as the eye can see while the melt is still going on. The peak time last year was about the beginning of August, but it will probably peak in mid June this year.

The north fork trail out of Dunraven trailhead is worth a look. It technically starts in the Comanche Peaks Wilderness Area. There are some cool ruins along that trail and there are a number of free, first-come-first-serve camp sites. The hike out to the camp sites is about a mile. Since they aren't in RMNP, you can just show up and use them. These are great if you are looking for a free place to camp during the middle of the week (there are fewer people competing for them). If you keep going on the trail, you get into the very remote northern region of the park.

Speaking of ruins, the old mining ruins at lulu city make for some good pictures. Lulu city is on the trail that leaves from the Never Summer Trailhead, and goes up the little Yellowstone canyon (the little Yellowstone canyon is the ultimate source of the Colorado River). If you are really feeling nimble, you can also make it to Thunder Pass from that trailhead. That hike will put hair on your chest but the view from up there will make a man drop to his knees.

Oh, and all of the trails from Wild Basin are neat. Some of the best cascades and waterfalls can be found on the trail that goes out of wild basin trailhead. I've always found that one to be a bit touristy for my taste. If you're similarly inclined, just hike out past the last waterfall and most of the tourists lose their nerve.

I should take the opportunity to discuss a little mountain safety here. The weather up there can change in a heartbeat (especially at about noon). If you decide on a longer hike, start early in the morning. You want to avoid the afternoon lightning storms. If kills people up there every year. It really isn't that big of deal as long as you are below tree-line during the afternoon.

Enjoy.

Edit: One last thing...don't forget a drybag for your camera!

[dubsola]

Yosemite National Park is a little far from Kansas to really consider for this trip but is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. Hiking was great. Views, spectacular.

I drove through Yosemite - it was all I could do - stopping only to look at the half dome and again to dip my feet in a stream. Absolutely amazing. I would love to go back there for an extended stay.

[ShootTheChicken]

I've only been to Yosemite and Yellowstone, but both are spectacular and worth the trip. Of course we all know that the best parks are up in Canada...

[pizzazz]

I'd highly recommend Glacier National Park in Montana. It's pretty close to the border of Canada, so it might be a bit of a drive, but I assure you that it is absolutely perfect. And depending on where in Kansas you are coming from, you might be able to go through Yellowstone to get there, hitting another pretty great (albeit popular) national park along the way.

I completely second Glacier. It's not one of the more well-known parks, so there aren't many people, and it's absolutely stunning. I want to go back so badly. Be forewarned: I was there in August, and we had snowfall up at about 10,000 feet. Be prepared.

Even Yellowstone isn't that bad for crowds, if you walk a little. I've been to some of the more popular parks, including Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon, and if walk 1/4 to 1/2 mile in from the road, about 90% of the people drop away.